Do Phu Cafe – Special Forces Cafe isn’t just a fusion of Vietnamese coffee culture and heartwarming Korean cuisine; it’s a cultural crossroads where stories of the past come alive. Before 1975, Mr. and Mrs. Do Mien’s Korean restaurant was a liaison station, next door to the house of a general of the Republic of Vietnam at that time.
Why is It Called “Do Phu Cafe – Dai Han Broken Rice”?
Let me tell you a story about a special place in Saigon that’s steeped in history and flavor. “Do Phu Cafe – Dai Han Broken Rice” isn’t just a catchy name; it reflects a fascinating blend of Vietnamese and Korean cultures.
In the 1940s, Mr. Do Mien and Mrs. Nguyen Thi Su opened a coffee and broken rice shop at this very location. They named it “Do Phu,” meaning “the house of Do”, and it quickly became a beloved spot for locals.
The coffee shop is an old house, where Saigon special forces operated with secret tunnels and wartime equipment still intact. | Photo: Tam Linh
But there’s more to this cafe than meets the eye. Before 1975, under the guise of a regular cafe, Do Phu became a secret base for the Saigon Special Forces. Mr. Tran Van Lai (Nam Lai) was in charge of managing the cafe’s secret operations.
A secret tunnel was built underground, used to store weapons and important documents. A “secret mailbox” was cleverly disguised, allowing soldiers to communicate safely. That’s why today locals call it “Ca Phe Biet Dong” (Special Forces Cafe).
Diagram of the activities of the house at 270 Vo Van Tan. Photo taken from the exhibits at the relic. | Photo: Nguyen Nam.
After 1975, Do Phu Cafe continued to operate as a normal business. The secret tunnel and mailbox were preserved, becoming historical relics. In 2018, Do Phu Cafe came under the ownership of Mr. Tran Vu Binh, the son of Mr. Tran Van Lai. The cafe was renovated and repaired, becoming a popular tourist destination for its historical value and unique architecture.
Memories of Mr. and Mrs. Do Mien’s family are displayed in the restaurant space. | Photo: Huynh Nhi
So, when you visit Do Phu Cafe, you’re not just enjoying a cup of coffee; you’re stepping back in time and experiencing a piece of Vietnamese history. It’s a place where the past comes alive, and the spirit of resilience and resourcefulness is palpable.
The Current Ambiance of Do Phu Cafe
Step into Do Phu Cafe, and you’ll feel like you’ve traveled back in time to old Saigon. This charming cafe is a delightful blend of food, drinks, and a nostalgic atmosphere that captures the essence of a bygone era.
The Ambiance of Do Phu Cafe
If you’re looking for a taste of old Saigon, Do Phu Cafe is your time machine. This charming little cafe is tucked away in a wooden house from the 1940s – a real blast from the past! You’ll love the warm wood, the vintage furniture, and the ceiling fan that lazily spins overhead. It’s like stepping into a scene from an old movie.
The house at 113A Dang Dung is located right next to Mr. Ngo Quang Truong’s house, so to operate safely, it must be “disguised” with a broken rice and coffee shop. | Photo: Nguyen Nam
Grab your coffee and head outside to the peaceful garden courtyard. It’s the perfect spot to relax and watch the city go by. Oh, and did I mention the secret tunnel? Yeah, you heard that right! Some Do Phu Cafes even have hidden tunnels that were once used during the war.
As the cafe has expanded, it has preserved its historical significance. You can actually climb down there and see where they stored supplies and even hid soldiers. It’s a history buff’s dream! So visit one of these locations to experience a piece of Vietnamese history:
- 1st location: 113A Dang Dung Street, Tan Dinh Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City.
- 2nd location**: 270 Vo Van Tan Street, Ward 5, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City.
- 3rd location: 145 Tran Quang Khai Street, Tan Dinh Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City.
Broken Rice – a Signature Dish at Do Phu Cafe
In addition to the mystery of the space, the food here also arouses curiosity for visitors. When you swing by Do Phu Cafe, you have to try the “Dai Han Broken Rice”. The restaurant’s broken rice is a mix of Vietnamese broken rice and Korean kimchi, creating a new flavor.
The original broken rice dish at the restaurant has grilled ribs, pork skin, sausage, eggs, pickled water spinach served with a sweet, southern-style garlic and chili fish sauce. The Korean soldiers were not used to eating it, so they suggested that the restaurant owner add kimchi.
Kimchi and pickled spinach are served with broken rice. | Photo: Pgoena Duong.
“At that time, Mrs. Su used Vietnamese garlic and chili to make the dish, but the Korean soldiers were not used to it, so she had to switch to Korean chili and garlic to make it more delicious for them,” Mr. Binh said. According to him, later on, Korean veterans still returned to the restaurant, ate the old dishes, and shed tears.
No meal is complete without a drink. Do Phu Cafe has all the Saigon classics: iced milk coffee, French-style butter coffee, and even fried donuts with iced coffee – yep, you read that right! Or, if you’re craving something lighter, try the fresh pineapple or coconut juice, shaved ice syrup, and other yummy options.
So,
As you can see, Do Phu Cafe is more than just a place to grab a coffee and a bite to eat. It’s a living testament to Vietnam’s rich history and a testament to the resilience and creativity of its people. But this is just one of the many hidden gems Saigon has to offer!
If you’re eager to uncover more of Saigon’s unique cultural treasures, as a local friend, I will take you on an unforgettable journey through the city’s most fascinating historical sites, local markets, and hidden cafes. With our Saigon Kiss City Tour, you’ll not only see the sights but also learn about the stories and people behind them. And yes, you would get to experience the magic of Do Phu Cafe firsthand!
